Sunday, April 15, 2012

My Kind of Town

Easter in Chicago.  Checked into the Fairmont Airport.  Last time we lucked out with a north facing suite, view of the mountains, bathroom bigger than Michael Fassbender’s business if you know what I mean, shutters you could swing back from the bathtub and watch TV or take in the view, double sinks, two-person shower, the works.  This time south facing, standard king, still very nice and well appointed and as equally terrifically sound-proofed.   Honestly, you can watch a jumbo speed down the runway (through the Nikon Prostaff telescope, standard) and still hear a pin drop.  Nice.  Not so nice?  Well, we passed on the $35 salmon sandwich and the other fine selections at what is arguably one of YVR’s best restaurants but also priciest, and had, for $11.99, the White Spot burger and beer special; something appealingly socialist about how the prices at YVR are the same as the city.  Free WiFi for free membership in the free President’s Club, terrifically non-elite elitist, and SS promptly returned to work.  Aah, the government.  I could also pass on the bed, uber-soft and all enveloping, like lolling in jelly.
Fairmont YVR: Too soft

Fairmont Chicago: Just right

Standard king on 32nd floor

Mies out the window. The Carbide/Carbon deco building in the distance is now a Hard Rock Cafe and Hotel.

More Mies-ey


On the morning of travel we breezed through check-in and had Nexus to speed up Customs.  But SS was “spot checked” unbeknownst to me and I was left alone in the departure halls not sure what to do or  where to turn and not allowed to re-enter the Customs area.  Our gate, 78, was the furthest distance possible without ending up in the Fraser, and I jogged down to the gate to make sure he wasn’t there, jogged back, then jogged back down again as they were in the final stages of boarding.  A crew member said “if you want to fly you better board” so I passed the gate but I just stood on the gangplank unsure of which way to go.  At the end, the very bitter end of boarding, SS showed up.  They had demanded to see his bag which had to be pulled from the plane and delivered to Customs.  At this point we had no idea whether we were going to arrive at O’Hare with or without underwear.  I took a sedative.

The plane was overbooked and crammed with gargantuan men who made up a hockey team but we finagled two seats together and I sat cautiously between a stressed out SS and a Left Wing asleep with drool dribbling into the cabin.  Gorgeous day to arrive in the windy city, and arrive early, although in a holding pattern, and miracle of miracles the bag came too.  Cabbed to the Fairmont (first day of baseball and Cubs traffic had the Interstate backed up).  Checked in rather seamlessly.  Decent room with a great SW view towards a Mies van der Rohe complex and Millennium Park with its Anish Kapoor Cloud Gate sculpture and Gehry's Pritzker Bandshell.  Common areas in the hotel not so hot, hallways and public areas a bit of a rabbit warren and with much room for improvement.
Kappor's sculpture, Millennium Park

Gehry's Pritzker bandshell



Gehry also designed the stainless steel BP Bridge which snakes over traffic and provides a sound buffer; above and below


Took a walk up the Magnificent Mile.  Sort of a glorified mall, Robson Street on a Chicago scale, but happened upon an exceptional high-end food fair at the Water Tower complex and we had charcuterie, cheeses, dips and vegetables, with Prosecco, so all was not lost.  Nothing else to write a blog about, every chain under the sun, but the Bloomingdales in the 1912 Medinah Temple was of note as were signs and buildings and something glorious called sunshine.

Nap.

First evening jumped in a cab to Green Zebra, an elegant vegetarian restaurant on W Chicago where we met up with Irish/Vancouver Julie and her UK/Washington DC friend Wendy, for a pretty splendid small plates sharing feast.  Some highlights included sweet potato dumplings with crabapple ketchup and flatbread with charred leek jam, taleggio, cured fennel and Thai basil.  SS did the tasting menu.  Julie and Wendy shared what was, apparently, a superb baked Alaska for afters. A wonderful bottle of Au Bon Climat.  Great evening.  Chef Shawn McClain signed a menu for us.  Later we cabbed to the W for cocktails, the wrong W, and then to the Lakeshore, where we admired the views of Navy Pier and the downtown skyline to $14 drinks and music which Julie begged go old school to no avail.  Having arrived at our limit, our old person’s limit, we cabbed back to our respective hotels.
The Wrigley Building Chicago Is



The Medinah Temple, now a Bloomingdale's

Aon Center, front, dwarfs the Chicago Fairmont behind

Not caucasian


The Monadnock skyscraper.  16 stories, load bearing.  Eight foot walls underground, six foot walls at street level, 18 inches at the top.  Post fire, 19th century.

Willis, nee Sears Tower

Their Library.  Kin to a famous YVR faux pas.

Next AM a little slow, but we got it going, thanks in no small part to the Nespresso in the room; nice touch Fairmont.  Onto Wicker Park for a little window shopping (glorious day) then back to Chicago Avenue for a basic lunch at a Michelin-guide recommended diner called Flo (a little too greasy and fast food for our tastes: No TripAdvisor review for you!) then North along Halsted walking, up and down Boystown and beyond, found some Peychaud’s bitters but not much else, train downtown, took a 3:30 Architecture Institute high-rise tour, then back to the hotel for a rest before hopping back in a cab to Boka.  Excellent food in a spectacularly mediocre room (half the restaurant is an outdoor space converted, with rather flimsy passion, into a dimly lit cloister).  Pass.
The Palmer Hilton



Saturday AM a little slow on the go (great beds at the Fairmont, so unlike the YVR airport venue) then into the downtown.  Gloriously sunny and warm and deep blue sky.  Checked out the over-the-top garish lobby at the much-touristed Palmer Hilton, into Macy’s (previously Marshall Fields), sourced a vintage poster shop, and otherwise traipsed about State Street, that great street, and the grandee of Michigan Avenue.  Then trained north to John Hancock Center for Vibram shoes and a fine lunch at the Water Tower food fair where they were playing the Masters on one TV at the bar and college field lacrosse on the other.  Go figure. 

Back on the trains north to Lincoln Square for quaint shopping poking about, had hazed over and there was no wind so it had become a whiff of how humid I’m sure the windy city can get, and then back downtown on the “better late than never” Brown line.

We had no dinner plans and nothing in our various treks led us to consider making a reservation and as a fallback we were considering Aria, the Top Chef Texas near-finalist Beverly Kim’s restaurant in our hotel, but it was perpetually empty, and worse, from the street, was dead; the sushi bar was a ghost town, night after night.  So on a whim we walked across the street to the Radisson which has an Italian bar and restaurant called Filini, after the strings of lights across the room, for a very tasty basic Italian dinner (eggplant and house made mozzarella bruschetta, a Caesar with fresh anchovies, braised oxtail gnocchi, a half chicken in rosemary and a green salad).  SS went for a dessert of basically house made donuts with raspberry, vanilla and chocolate dipping sauces.  Chef came over and poured us a couple of very fine grappas gratis. 
SS and a Calder


Thinking of our friend, er, Nina, that's it

Beauty Bar, a hip bar on Chicago street

The skyline in Lego; as per below, not lifesize!


Another gorgeous day Sunday.  Even warmer.  Got up lazily and packed and went out for a short walk then met Nigel for brunch, who had come from Principia en route to his training gym up in Geneva (returned to Filini, where I have to give credit to the fruit that came with my yoghurt: raspberries, blackberries, strawberries and blueberries, not a whiff of the old crutch, melon, in sight).  After we finished packing, had a quick look at the Sunday paper, went to check-out, and didn’t have our gift card to pay the bill!  After totally unpacking and combing through the garbage and room twice over it dawned on me that I might have accidentally given it to Nig; so I called his cell and he was miraculously still in Chicago, and not far away, so we reconnected.  Phew.  Jumped into a cab to the airport—and thus began the single longest cab ride of my adult life, over an hour in stop and go traffic, plodding up to O’Hare.  But, again, we made it.  Check-in (three seats for two! Sweet!), got some lunch at Starbucks (two small waters, two sandwiches and two cookies: $31USD.  I kid you not!), and boarded early.  SS watched Downton Abbey on his iPad and I wrote the blog.  His birthday to boot.  Happy Easter!
Let's see if I can remember: Glenn Cassie, Nigel Marples, Stephen Smith.  Outside Aria, the Beverly Kim enterprise that seemed like a ghost town.

Thursday, August 25, 2011

Transamerica

Wednesday, August 24, 2011: 500 miles, 500 miles, 500 miles, 500 miles...

We were up early (six) and packed and out by seven.  Some high cloud but very warm.  Drove SS to the Charles Schulz airport (aka Sonoma County Airport).  Was on my way by eight.  So it began.

The most complicated part of driving home, particularly alone (should have called this entry Home Alone), was getting to the Interstate.  It was indirect, east, north, northeast, and east again, on several different routes, including some non-intuitive turns west and even south.  The switchback route up to and through Robert Louis Stevenson State Park was tortuous to say the least and rivalled Hwy 1 on the coast in its required arcade game skillset.
Shot through windshield while driving.  Seriously!

A less stellar view of Mt. Shasta via windshield photography

Once on the I5 it was cruise control; CA allows 70 MPH in rural areas.  The temperature climbed, slowly, from mid 70s, to low 80s, to, finally, low 90s.  My first stop was in Redding, at a Starbucks, for some lunch items and a coffee, around 11.  Too hot for Mr T to do anything, so back in the car he went.  Second stop Castello, a tiny municipality buried in the Shasta Lake area, gorgeous northern California mountain territory.  Third stop was a large rest stop abutting a campground just past Medford, Oregon (where we hit the high today, 97), on the Rogue River.  Only about 95 at the rest stop, but stinking hot nonetheless.  After that I was getting tired, about eight hours driving.  With the intention to make it to Halsey, a small town halfway through Oregon, I turned off instead at Eugene.  Based on TripAdvisor, checked out Red Lion, but they wanted $129.  Too much!  They pleaded with me telling me it included breakfast--but breakfast is dirt cheap in the US.  Drove back onto the I5 and took another exit and checked out the Super 8 where they include a breakfast in the much lower rate.  And here I will say three nice things about the Super 8 (aside from the fact that it was much cheaper than Red Lion): First, the air conditioner is quieter (and more efficient) than our more expensive hotel rooms; there is free Tazo tea in the lobby; the WiFi is free and fast.  There, three things.  Go Super 8!
Vintage billboard at the Castello gas station

Rocky outcrops seen from Castello

Took Mr. T on a very long “mall” walk as, just a quarter mile off the freeway, there is not much more to do.  We checked out the myriad dining options (Carl’s Jr., Denny’s, Sizzler, Burrito Amigos, Burrito van Ditto, Applebee’s, Subway, KFC, Taco Bell, China Sun, Jimmy John’s, Taco Time) and stumbled across Cafe Yumm.  This is probably the best idea in fast food in a generation.  Score!  Got take out and went back to the room with the dog.  Panting from the heat he seemed extraordinarily happy to pass out in the cool of the AC.

Tomorrow home.
American Beauty, sunset from the Super 8

Transamerica: Actually, I wanted to call this entry Travelin Thru, but that was Dolly Parton’s (pretty wonderful) theme to the movie, and switching to title tracks as opposed to actual titles as a blog theme would disappoint all 31 "international" readers of this blog I’m sure.  But the Interstate system is, really, Transamerica, so no disappointment...

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Some Like it Hot

Lake Benoist, Riverfront Regional Park, Russian River Valley, west

NE towards the Alexander Valley


Tuesday, August 23, 2011: A mild 70 or so on rising, crystal clear sky, quiet.  Checked in on the world (Libya, dollar OK, earthquake, the usual) then drove down to a Riverfront Park, a 300 acre regional park on two lakes near a town called Windsor, SW of Healdsburg.  The lakes were created from gravel mines; one, Lake Wilson, is a bird sanctuary, the other, Lake Benoist allows canoes/rowboaters and fishing.  A popular horse park.  Water was still and glasslike.  We had a wonderful walk around the perimeter, and Tonino had a dip and a bath of burrs (too bad we didn’t call him Raymond).  We took a woodsy trail over a bluff and were going to take a second spin around Benoist but it had turned ever hotter.  Back at the car the thermometer registered 85.
Gardens at Rochioli, Russian River Valley
We took the wine  backroads through the various valleys which dot the Russian River.  We stopped at Rochioli, where the tasting was free, including their sensational $52 a bottle Pinot, and then ended up in a sort of one horse town called Geyserville.  There was an  upmarket pizza place on the shady side of the street so we tied up the dog and took lunch in the window (shared a salad and a house pizza with meatballs and romano and, hot, topped with arugula). 
Geyserville.  That's pretty much it.

After lunch we took the scenic route to Ridge; temperature had gone over 90.  It seemed imperative to make the trek to what has been probably the most consistent and brilliant of California vineyards.  Their huge chateaux was wonderfully chill, we brought the dog in who got a little pep back, but it wasn’t AC; it was bale construction with overhangs and excellent insulation.  Just goes to show.
Ridge Vineyards, Lytton Springs.  The largest straw bale structure in the world.


Not much more to report in this heat (settling in around 94 late aft).  Made it back to the poolside, and the deck, and our books and magazines and a few neighbourhood walks, but this is definitely what I would call summer—too bad we had to wait until August 23 to get it!
Ciao HMC


On Tuesdays Healdsburg has a sure cure for the early week blues most tourist towns experience: A farmer’s market at 4 p.m. followed by free concerts in their centre square at six.  There were a lot of locals and out-of-towners who converged and left us a little bit pressed to find a restaurant, but we did, not our first choice, but what the heck.  At Spoon Bar, in the lobby of a hotel, the walls opened up completely, so we ate al fresco, with views to the back of BarnDiva across the way.  SS had a series of Moroccan salads to start, I had a Greek salad, then we both had hand-made pasta with fresh peas, asparagus, enoki mushrooms and fava beans.  For dessert SS had cinnamon chocolate cannoli and I had a delicate olive cake with blackberries and crème fraiche.  A memorable summer evening, perfectly warm but not oppressive, a light breeze came up around eight and the temperature dipped into the mid 70s.  Very nice. 
hot times in Healdsburg

Greek salad with heirloom tomatoes


Hand-made cavaletti w/ fresh market peas, enoki, fava beans & asparagus

All good things must come to an end.  SS flies back tomorrow AM and I make my way, on the Interstate with the dog, the 950 or so miles return.


Some Like it Hot
Some like it hot, some like it medium cool, some like it the big chill.  For those in the former: Why does Geraldine change her name to Daphne?  There is probably a film school answer to that but I am disinclined to Google it.
the sun sets in Sonoma

A Place in the Sun


Monday, August 22, 2011: Woke up to 59 degrees, cloudy, mist like rain in the air; Mendocino had followed us east!  SS went across the street for coffee to a bakery connected with the DuChamp, the hotel for swells also with Cyrus, the Michelin starred spot; coffee and baked goods are included in the room rate.  We got our act together, packed up the station wagon with all sorts of gloomy weather gear, and set out for Napa.
Above Napa valley, looking toward Calistoga



The very famous valley...

One thing I forgot about California is that it is a tad strict on the dogs.  The really interesting State Parks near here, Robert Louis Stevenson (he honeymooned there) and Bothe-Napa, both with great trails and swimming, are dog prohibited—even on lead!  So we had to be creative and instead went to a county park in Calistoga.  There is a very long trail called the Oat Mine Trail, 2400 feet or so up the Palisades, but we only hiked about 1300 feet up and back, just over two hours hiking.  No sooner had we started, in our mist-weather gear, then the clouds parted, the sun came out, and it was spectacularly hot, about 85 degrees.
Turkey vulture with its wing spread


giant pine cones of northern California
The hike took us through pine, oak, arbutus (which they call Pacific Madrone), laurel and eucalyptus trees with exceptional views south and west through the northern end of Napa valley, the town of Calistoga, and glimpses of the Napa River (if you can call the near still stream that runs down the valley a river...).  The warning at the trail head was to watch for mountain lions, rattle snakes and poison oak.  A little different than the bear warnings up Whistler way.
Jade Lake at Chateau Montelena

The chateau, also seen in film...

water feature, not related to the WC Fields quote

This trip isn’t focussed on the wine mecca we’ve ended up situated in, but it’s so in your face that sooner or later we had to bite.  When we drove by Chateau Montelena, there was no question but to go Sideways.  The grounds are well-manicured and the “chateau” quite regal,  but there are no organized tours.  Bearing witness was sufficient for me, the $20 tasting fee seemed a little steep and I'm not about to buy anything to drive back home with, but it turned out that on Mondays in August they are offering tastings of their 1990 chardonnay.  For those who have never seen Bottle Shock (spoiler alert), it’s the hugely amusing Alan Rickman film, based on a true story, about an over-mortgaged winery in Napa, a perfect chardonnay, a blind taste test in Paris, and Napa coming of age in the wine world. Needless to say it put Montelena on the map. They also let us “share” one tasting, so we enjoyed their current chardonnay, the 1990 (from a magnum), two cab sauvs, a sauv bl, a Riesling and a zin, from the same glass.

Oldest building in Calistoga, built in 1886; now a pizzeria

It was early afternoon, so we headed into the nearest town, Calistoga.  This seemed to me the perfect mix of town and tourist, with both quaint and appealing streets and bungalows, shops not too “done up” and even a dog friendly patio where we took lunch under an arbour. 
600 year old California oak

giant redwood, petrified, Petrified Forest

2,000 year old tree felled by volcano, 3.4 million years ago

On the way back we detoured to The Petrified Forest, a gimmicky place I guess but it was fun and they let us in with Mr T.  In short, it’s a portion of forest that, 3.4 million years ago, took a huge volcanic blast which felled old growth redwoods, pines and oak.  Many have been “resurrected” by geologists.  The highlight for me though was their cafe.  It is not on the path but I wandered off to check it out: Pristine oak booths, vintage lino floors, the open kitchen with diamond stainless steel, antiquated cash registers, a line of five and ten type barstools.  It was just magnificent, as if someone had closed the door in 1960 and not come back.  The proprietor told me her mother had opened it in 1952.  There is a small cabin attached off the kitchen and she ran it until 1968 when, due to Parkinsons, she had to be hospitalized.  I can’t believe it’s not in demand by Hollywood as a location shoot.  Anyway, there you have it, Americana writ large, and rotting away in dust.
second story door, not to code

We drove back on Hwy 128 to Healdsburg, took a walk around town, a swim, then went out to dinner.  Walked into a place called the Charcuterie. They had half orders of everything but I’m telling you, even with half starters and half mains, we could barely waddle out of there. Plus, no corkage on Mon-Thu.  God Bless America!
refreshing and delicious honeydew mint soup at the Charcuterie (chef refused to share recipe!)

man with parrot; he had adopted the bird at six months, it was now 10 year old

NB: SS informs me that it’s not Charlie Trotter with a place here but Charlie Palmer.  Whatever. Also, to the e-mail query as to why I'm not in more photos: It's my hair.  So long.  All I can do is either  slick it up a la Zbigniew Brzezinski or let the long furls fall forward, a la Jack Lord.  Neither complementary options.



A Place in the Sun: My favourite moment is Elizabeth Taylor coming into the living room on their first scene together and not noticing Montgomery Clift; he stares, she ignores. Can you ever imagine not being able to notice Monty C--even after the accident?   It really had to be ET in 1950, that shockingly beautiful ET of 1950, too beautiful to notice Monty C who was, arguably, the most striking actor of the time. I wonder if in fact it was an in-joke.   And poor Shelly Winters, like a hard done Irish Terrier, forced to wait in the car while his masters take dinner.  Such a life.
local theatre, Healdsburg